Shaker Workbench

I really want to put together a nice post showing my workbench and explaining why it was built the way it is, but I haven't done it. So, here are a bunch of pictures.











Click on "Workbench" to see more posts about my Shaker Workbench or "plans" to see the SketchUp model

Since these pictures, I've added the anti-wrack pad to the front vise (which works great by the way) covered the chops of the front vise with leather, added the sliding board jack, and probably other things too.

More pictures and better formatting later.

Leather work

I used leather to cover the faces of my woodworking vise. I had extra leather and I found that I can make some very useful things without too much work.

The only tool that was really necessary was the needles. I already had them from some rope work I had done in the past, so they didn't cost anything.

I bought an overstitch wheel which marks the stitches before drilling the holes. I used it only on the second larger sheath. I think the even stitches there look much better and they certainly were easier to mark.

The chunk of scrap walnut has been smoothed on one end on a belt sander. It is used to smooth the edges and rub the leather into place.

The piece of hickory with the hook on the end is for marking where the stitches go in comparison with an edge. It is effectively a marking gauge.

I might invest in a v-gouge at some point in the future. It is used after the marking gauge to cut a thin depression for the threads. This decreases wear on the threads. It is also used to cut thin strips from the inside of the leather to make it fold more easily.

I also used contact cement, a utility knife, a straight edge, a hammer, and my belt sander. That's about it for tools.

The lower sheath was stained with walnut Watco Danish Oil. I don't really think it looks better, but it was interesting to try. It worked very well even though it's not meant for leather. It has also been heavily waxed. The upper sheath has not been treated at all. I'd like to try soaking it in hot paraffin, but haven't got that far yet.

The button is one I cut from a branch and soaked for a couple of months in boiled linseed oil.

I couldn't find any description of how one might make a draw knife sheath or a push knife sheath anywhere on the web. If I made the push knife sheath again, I'd cut it so that it was narrower where the straps come over the back so that the straps would bear directly on the back of the blade. I'd also attach the button further from the back of the blade. The draw knife sheath might be improved a little. It should fit the length of the blade more closely and the flap should be larger and looser (I'm not sure how to make it looser). That would allow the knife to be inserted without having to hold the sheath right near the very-sharp blade.

This is not sophisticated leather work, but I was quite pleased with what I was able to do without a lot of practice or training.

Experiments with Glue and Wood

I wanted to glue up a workbench top 90” long, 30” wide, 4” thick using laminations of 1 1/4" southern yellow pine (SYP). To do it with clamps every six inches would require 14 clamps. I only had four clamps over 30" long, so I wanted to try another way. I got advice on the SawMill Creek forum and decided to try applying glue, screwing each board to the next one, then after the glue dried, removing the screws and gluing on another board.

I wasn’t sure if the screws would apply enough pressure, so I experimented.

Experiment 1:

Two pieces of SYP each 9" x 7”.
Screws centered on long axis 1.5” and 4.5” from one end.
#10 x 2-3/8" ProMax Round Washer Head Dry Lube Screws - from McFeely’s
Titebond glue spread with the objective of just getting a bit of squeeze out after clamping

As you can just see in the lower left corner, the screw force caused the two pieces to bend away from each other on one side. In the right picture, the 9 x 7 grid has been cut into 63 pieces for testing.

I laboriously started measuring the breaking force for each joint.

It's not a sophisticated system, but I was able to fill the bucket hanging at the end of that cord with junk until the joint broke, then weigh the bucket. I soon noticed that there was a lot of variation in measurements but there were just three kinds of breaks: 1) at the glue line, 2) partly at the glue line, and 3) all in the wood. I stopped weighing the bucket and started breaking the blocks and recording the kind of break.

Here are the results of experiment 1:

Clearly, the bent boards I mentioned above caused the upper board to bend away from the lower along the left edge and there was little or no clamping force there.

Conclusions from Experiment 1:

The screw force was sufficient to make a good glue joint.
The clamping force appeared to extend along the grain at least 4 1/2”
The clamping force appeared to extend across the grain 1 1/2".
Wood bends when you squeeze it.






Experiment 2:

Two pieces of SYP each 13" x 4”.
Screws centered on long axis 2.5” and 4.5” from one end.
#10 x 2-3/8" ProMax Round Washer Head Dry Lube Screws
Titebond glue spread with the objective of just getting a bit of squeeze out after clamping

Here’s a SketchUp version of the setup.














I cut one inch squares the long way and short way. Because my circular saw doesn’t cut deep enough, I finished the remaining short cuts with a handsaw. It wasn’t necessary to finish the long cuts.

You can see in the right side picture that the square on the right edge of the glue-up, furthest from the screws broke off cleanly with no adhesion.




Here are the results:

There is a definite anomaly here. It was caused by an oily knot which was on the bottom of the top board. I had hand-planed both boards, but I had not wiped them with naptha as is suggested for SYP.

Conclusions from Experiment 2:

The clamping force appeared to extend along the grain at least 8 1/2”
The clamping force appeared to extend across the grain 2 1/2".
Oily spots, usually related to knots, do not glue well.















Experiment 3:

Based on the data above, I had a theory. A screw puts a point load on the top surface of the wood where the head rests. Force spreads from that point in an oval which is substantially longer in the direction of the grain. For a 1 1/2" board, it covers about 4” side to side and about 12” along the grain. Because it’s an oval, it doesn’t cover the corners of that rectangle.

Based on that theory, I thought I could glue up my 4” wide board with screws every 5” staggered from side to side and an extra at each end. It would look like this, but it would be 90" long.



Two pieces of SYP each 26x4.”
Screws centered on long axis 2.5” and 4.5” from one end.
#10 x 2-3/8" ProMax Round Washer Head Dry Lube Screws
Titebond glue spread with the objective of just getting a bit of squeeze out after clamping

This is what it looked like after I had broken each 1" square and put all the samples back in place. All had broken in the wood, meaning that the glued joint was stronger than the wood itself.


Because the screws were removed after the glue dried and before the next board was glued on, there is no metal in the top. And, it worked. It's been about six months and my top has not shown any cracks nor has it warped at all since the first month.

Conclusion: A $7.50 box of screws can substitute for $500 worth of clamps. But it will take a whole lot more time and effort.

SketchUp to Reality - bedside table

I use Google SketchUp (SU) to do a lot of doodling and planning. Sometimes I actually produce something which I have modeled. This is a nightstand I made for my daughter.


Besides basic assumptions for a bed side table, the design criteria were:

1. It had to fit stylistically with her present furniture and be neutral enough to fit with future furniture.

2. It needed to incorporate some bins.

3. It had to minimally block the vent which it will be on top of.

4. It had to be quick & easy to build.


After Googling around looking at bedside tables, I drew first on paper just to think about the design, then started in SU. I modeled the height of her bed and the window behind it to help get the size and proportions right. We purchased bins and I modeled those.

I used pocket screw joinery to assemble it. I bought a "Kreg Jig" system earlier this year and I have found it to be extremely useful. It is a quick and strong way of assembling things. It's not "fine woodworking," but not everything needs to be.

In addition to the model of the nightstand in place, I copied the components onto imaginary boards to optimize lumber usage. One of the "scenes" in the model shows the diagram below. I had planned on gluing up lumber to get 12" wide panels, but when I went to purchase the wood, lumber which would dress to 11 1/4" was available. I quickly updated the model and was good to go. The pine lumber was nominal 3/4" thick.

I used hand planes to prepare the wood, a guide and a circular saw for the crosscuts, and handsaws for the rips and curves. My router broke just before I started this project, so I was not able to use a router bit to round the edges. I did that with a block plane and sandpaper which resulted in a nice handmade look.

I sanded and scraped the pine and on first assembly, found that the wood was substantially less than 3/4" Using 1 1/4" Kreg screws for that size resulted in some of the screw points coming through the sides of the boards. I disassembled it, moved the boards slightly and replaced the screws with smaller ones.

I do not find finishing intuitive, but I am pleased with how this turned out. After I assembled the piece the first time, I disassembled it and finished it flat. Finishing individual pieces is much easier than working with completed furniture. The downside is that all the glue surfaces are covered with finish. If I were doing it again, I would mask the glue surfaces. Between the lack of glue and the smaller screws, I have some concern about structural integrity, but it feels solid enough.

I wanted to learn about shellac because I had never used it before. Shellac’s great fault is that it is soluble in alcohol, so you wouldn't want to use it anyplace where an alcoholic drink might be placed on it.

I used Zinsser Bulls Eye shellac. The shellac as it comes out of the can is very thick. Finishers refer to that thickness as a three-pound cut. A three-pound cut means - if the shellac had been made from flakes, as it used to be, it would have used three pounds of flakes mixed in one gallon of denatured alcohol. For the first coat, I added two units of hardware store denatured alcohol, making it a one-pound cut. Subsequent coats were a two-pound cut. I sanded with 400 grit to smooth the surface between coats. I also applied a gel stain between the 2nd and third layers.

After the four layers of shellac, I applied Trewax, Mahogany wax with 000 steel wool, then buffed it. Unfortunately, where I had put the wax on in a swirling pattern, there was a slight stain on the shellac. Repeating the waxing as below, eliminated almost all of the stains.

Next time, I will not leave as much wax on the surface while it is drying. It should be just enough to create a haze with no ridges. I would also apply the wax with the grain. The final finish has substantial depth.

The customer is happy and I'm pleased to be able to show it to friends. The model is available in the 3d warehouse here.

A Shaker Workbench - Hybrid Design

I'm building a workbench. The model above was produced in SketchUp. SketchUp is a relatively easy to learn, free, 3D modeling program. You can download the model here.

The workbench is a hybrid of what are called Shaker and Roubo designs. Shaker refers to the type of workbenches used by members of the Shaker religious community and the aesthetic style which they developed in their furniture. The other source of the design is André Jacob Roubo, a 16th century Frenchman who wrote a book on woodworking. A very heavy and solid style of bench takes its name from him.

Many of the ideas came from Christopher Schwarz's book and blog. Scott Landis's book was also very useful. Surfing the net and seeing other people's benches in the real world helped too. Although there is very little which is actually new in woodworking, I think a few of the ideas are original. originally posted 2008/05/30